May 3, 2010 - Anse Noire, Martinique

Earlier this afternoon we rounded Cap Salomon on the west coast of Martinique. Cap Salomon is certainly not one of the world's great capes. From a sailing perspective, it is an innocuous little bump on a coastline. But for us, it was a momentous rounding. The moment we sailed past Cap Salomon, we completed our circumnavigation.

Three years and three months ago, we sailed south from Fort de France, Martinique to Rodney Bay, St. Lucia, sailing past Cap Salmon. At the time we had no idea that the cape would be the location where we would eventually cross our outbound track and, as an old salt would say, tie the knot. But leaving Marin this morning we were prepared for the occasion. The champagne and shrimp dip were chilling in the fridge and we'd picked a snug little bay just past the cape to tuck into and celebrate.

Anse Noire turned out to be a beautiful, tiny little bay. We were beguiled by its palm fringed, volcanic black sand beach, which reminded us of the Marquesas, half a world away. The wind funnels down the hills surrounding the bay, requiring lots of swinging room for boats at anchor, which makes this small bay only big enough for two or three boats. We dropped anchor in the middle of the bay, had a late lunch, and went for a snorkel along the colorful cliffs surround the bay.

As the afternoon wore on, we decided to spend the night. That evening we were treated to one of the most spectacular sunsets of our entire trip. As darkness fell, we could see the lights of Fort de France, the biggest city in the Eastern Caribbean, twinkling in the distance. But in our private little harbor, we felt a million miles away from civilization.