Ever since I read the Babar books and fell in love with a giant stuffed elephant at FAO Schwartz (I think I was about 8 at the time), I've had a thing for elephants. So when I learned that twice a day a six year old female elephant visits the beach in front of the Sheraton at Klong Muang for a swim, I practically begged Sten to make a detour. Before we had even met her, I'd already christened her "Packy" and fallen a little in love with her. When she took a banana from my hand and peeled it by rolling it along her trunk, I was a goner. Packy eventually won Sten's heart by rolling over in the surf and kicking her legs in the air, like a puppy does when chasing rabbits in its sleep.